 Becky |
Should I Repair it? Hello- I own a Canon AE-1 with a standard 50mm lens. I purchased the whole thing for about $300 a year ago. I knew a lot less about buying used equip. then. I noticed yesterday that my diaphragm isn't closing all the time. It sticks intermittantly. Also I notice that part of the diaphragm looks like it might have been wet at one time. I'm assuming that whatever carelessness the lens went through the camera body went through too. The eye piece is cracked in the corner but is unobstructing. I also noticed that I seem to have some minor focusing probs. but I always assumed it was just me, maybe it's not. In your opinion, is this something I should look into fixing or should I just buy something new? If I do get something new I'd like to buy a New camera and lens. I do mainly black and white photography, and I want total manual capabilities. Help!!! Thank You
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Jeff S. Kennedy |
You paid $300 for an AE-1 and 50mm lens?!? It's a good camera but you paid way too much - especially if it's in that condition. I'd say cut your losses and trash the camera. For what you paid it would be foolish to invest any more money in that camera. As far as what camera to get, that's wide open. Any camera works for b&w so that doesn't really matter in your selection. As long as you stick with a good brand you will most likely end up with a decent camera. There are different bells and whistles with each brand and model that you have to get used to. Mainly you should look for one with manual control and one that feels good in your hands and is easy to use for the way you shoot.
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Becky |
Thanks for your input Jeff. I feel like an idiot for spending that much on such a bad deal. Just out of curiosity, How much do you think a good used camera and lens is worth (Canon AE-1 and lens)?
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John A. Lind |
Becky, A little more information about your AE-1P and lens to help validate what Jeff has told you. If the lens diaphragm looks like it's currently "wet" (very shiny) especially in the area where the blades rub together as the aperture opens up and stops down, it's almost always oil. Slang term for it is "oily blades." The lens diaphragm is sometimes "sticky" with oily aperture blades and they will stop down sluggishly when the shutter is released (resulting in overexposure); it's a common symptom of oily blades. "Fair market" price for an AE-1P and 50mm f/1.8 FD lens *known* to be in "EX" condition is about $200 USD from a dealer (in the U.S.). With knowledge about how to inspect one to avoid a "dog," they can be found for less with carefully shopping newspaper "want ads" or garage sales. Add about $40 more if the lens is the faster 50mm f/1.4 FD. From what you have described it sounds like you would have to send both body and lens in for work. If true, the combined cost would be about the same as simply replacing them. If it were just the lens and the only problem oily blades, the repair isn't that bad and it's relatively simple for someone experienced with lens repairs. It could also be replaced for $40 (f/1.8 FD) to $90 (f/1.4 FD). From your problem description though, the body worries me (more). If you're considering new, and want manual capabilities, look at the Nikon FM-2n (still in production!) and the FM-3a Nikon recently released. The FM-3a is unique. It's almost like a cross between the mechanical FM-2n and the long discontinued electronic shutter FE-2 with both mechanical and electronic shutter timing at *all* shutter speeds. Nikon still makes the manual focus AIS lenses for them too. The Nikkor AIS lens line isn't as extensive as it once was, but still covers a wide range. -- John
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Becky |
Hi John- Thanks for your input. I haven't decided whether to buy new or repair old yet, but, what do you think of the Nikon N80?
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John A. Lind |
Becky, Had to do a little research first. The FM3A would operate much like your current AE-1P does. You can mount any of the AF lenses on it; they won't auto-focus though. Operating the N-80 would be a little different. The Nikon N80 looks to be an improvement over the N70. It accepts all Nikon "F" mount lenses with the exception of the very oldest, originals that have not had the "AI" conversion. The specs show aperture priority auto, shutter priority auto, and a manual mode in addition to the completely automagic "program" mode. Also allows manually focusing the AF lenses. You mentioned being specifically interested in total manual control. A couple of caveats: (a) Manually focusing an AF camera accurately is usually more difficult, especially in lower light levels. The viewfinder typically does not contain the focusing aids (spit image and micro-prism ring) that a manual focus camera body does. The viewfinders are often "dimmer" and this adds to the problem. (b) I couldn't find much on exactly how the shutter speed and lens aperture are selected manually. The viewfinder can display their settings. While some AF, program mode cameras offer manual exposure control, they're cumbersome to use in that mode. With other models, it's relatively easy. I don't know which group the N-80 falls into. My standard for manual control is being able to set both aperture and shutter speed quickly, easily and without having to pull the viewfinder from my eye to look at a control. If manual control (focus and exposure) are particularly important I recommend going to a large camera store that carries the Nikon FM-2n, FM-3A, F-3, and N-80. This spans the range of the manual focus bodies plus the N-80. Handle all four of them and ask them specifically to show you how to work the N-80 in manual mode. You want to ensure you can use it in that mode quickly and easily without fumbling around with it, and be able to tell what controls your fingers are on without having to look at them. Then you want to try manually focusing it. Compare the ease of operating it manually with operating ease of the others. The F3 is expensive. It's the top of Nikons manual focus line and a high end pro grade camera body and it is a little heavier too (they're built like a tank). Don't choke too much when you see its price tag. I recommend handling it along with the others as a benchmark for comparing how it handles with the rest. -- John
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