BetterPhoto Q&A
Category: New Questions

City Skylines at night

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March 18, 2002

For the second one, done at night, here are starting points for estimating exposure based on film speeds.

ISO 25:
f/1.4 @ 4 seconds
f/2 @ 8 seconds
f/2.8 @ 16 seconds
f/4 @ 30 seconds

ISO 50:
f/1.4 @ 2 seconds
f/2 @ 4 seconds
f/2.8 @ 8 seconds
f/4 @ 16 seconds
f/5.6 @ 30 seconds

ISO 64 - ISO 100:
f/1.4 @ 1 seconds
f/2 @ 4 seconds
f/2.8 @ 4 seconds
f/4 @ 8 seconds
f/5.6 @ 16 seconds
f/8 @ 30 seconds

ISO 125 - ISO 200:
f/1.4 @ 1/2 second
f/2 @ 1 second
f/2.8 @ 2 seconds
f/4 @ 4 seconds
f/5.6 @ 8 seconds
f/8 @ 16 seconds
f/11 @ 30 seconds

ISO 320 - ISO 400
f/1.4 @ 1/4 second
f/2 @ 1/2 second
f/2.8 @ 1 second
f/4 @ 2 seconds
f/5.6 @ 4 seconds
f/8 @ 8 seconds
f/11 @ 16 seconds
f/16 @ 30 seconds

ISO 800
f/1.4 @ 1/8 second
f/2 @ 1/4 second
f/2.8 @ 1/2 second
f/4 @ 1 second
f/5.6 @ 2 seconds
f/8 @ 4 seconds
f/11 @ 8 seconds
f/16 @ 16 seconds

Notes:
(a) Check the your specific film's data sheet(s) under the recommended exposure section for long exposure "reciprocity failure" information. It will tell if any compensation (additional exposure) is required. The exposures given above are *not* corrected for this as it varies greatly among specific films.

(b) These exposures are only an estimate for photographing a distant city skyline of illuminated buildings. Even though I've found these fairly accurate, YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). Bracket exposures until you determine exactly what's required. I recommend going from 1 stop less exposure to two stops more exposure in half-stop increments with a test roll, then pick what you want for image density and shoot your final images bracketed by a half-stop in each direction around that.

(c) If you use daylight film, understand that man-made artificial lighting is *not* daylight. An all-encompassing skyline cityscape is nearly impossible correct using filters because of the wide variety of lighting present in the scene, each type of which is balanced differently. In addition, the exposure times are already long; filters would make them even longer (2X or more). If you're using color negative (print) you may have to work with the printer to get what you want in balancing the printing. If you're using color transparency (slide) you may need to experiment with a tungsten film if you don't like what you get from daylight film. Just as with negatives though, if you have a slide printed, you can work with the printer for the color balance you desire in the print.

-- John

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March 18, 2002