 Angie M. Nemanic |
High key lighting I shoot with a D70s and use two calumet 750 ws flash units. My question is regarding high key lighting. I'm still learning my strobes. I recently took a friend's pregnancy photos and she wanted to wear all black with a black background. I set my main light to f8 and my fill to f4. I used umbrellas with both lights. After studying the images there just wasn't enough separation between her and the back ground. You really couldn't tell she was really pregnant. Any advice on how to produce better high key images with only two lights? Should I have just used one main light and used the other just for the background light? Also, basic lighting 101 question. When I meter my main light to whatever aperature, ie, f-8 at 100, should I set my camera to those exact numbers? Can I leave the light as is and change my aperature in the camera for varying results? Thanks...
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
Black on black isn't considered high key. But you can try blocking some light to the background. Or you can position a light to get some rim lighting. Place it to the side and behind her, pointing towards her. You can make that your main light and still have it for f/8, but set the aperture higher(open) a stop or more. You may need to block some from getting to the camera to prevent flare. Yes to your second question.
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Angie M. Nemanic |
Thanks Gregory. You're right...it's low key...I knew that... Thanks for the info, I'll try lighting from behind. Should I keep my fill at roughly F4 and then having that light at 45 degrees from the camera. Thanks...
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
You can. Depends on what look you want.
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Alan N. Marcus |
Hi Angie, “High Key” portrays a light-toned subject against a white or nearly white background. Since both the subject and background are nearly the same tone, the effect is achieved when main and fill are set to produce gradations while avoiding strong shadows. “Low Key” images are composed of dark tones. Generally the main is set more to one side. The effect is large shadow areas however the fill is adjusted such that shadow detail is preserved. You should strive to master three lighting ratios: In every case the fill is set subordinate to the main therefore its contribution to exposure energy can generally be ignored. 3:1 whereby the fill is subordinate to the main by one f/stop: 5:1 whereby the fill is subordinate by two f/stops: 9:1 whereby the fill is subordinate by three f/stops. Since you are filling shadows from the cameras viewpoint, the fill is placed somewhere near an imaginary line drawn from the subject and extended through the camera and beyond. Light meters usage is not intuitive. A good starting point is a reflective reading taken off a gray card held near subject plane or a incident measurement taken at the subject plane meter pointed directly back at camera. Set camera exactly as indicated. For dark skin textures, open up 1 or 1½ f/stops. Direct meter readings taken off human skin generally render skin too dark. This is because the reflected light meter is regulated to render whatever thing its pointed at as middle gray. Stated another light meters are calibrated to obtain an 18% gray (battleship gray) otherwise known as zone V. Fair subjects are best rendered zone VI (lighter by about 1/f stop). A tried reflective reading method that works for 3:1 set-up only: Alan Marcus (open to discussion technical bits and pieces)
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John H. Siskin |
Hi Angie, Photographing black on black isn’t going to create a great image when you want to show shape. If you want a face to come out of blackness it works, but I wouldn’t choose it for a pregnancy shot. If you used one light as a large light source, say 4X8 feet (bounce the light off a full size piece of foam core) then used you second light on the background to make the background gray rather than black. You could also use a gel on this light to add color. I don’t use a meter anymore when I shoot with strobes. I guess the exposure and then refine it with the histogram and the image on a laptop or the LCD. I tell my students that the meter is only useful for making a first guess, it should not be a final exposure, unless you have evaluated it. The key is to look at what you are doing either with the histogram and a monitor of some kind or with Polaroid material if you are using film.
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Angie M. Nemanic |
Thanks so much for the information. I also have a gray background which I'm planning to use for another pregnant friend so I can get more shape. The photos were nice, but you're right, it doesn't define the person's shape enough. I'm actually planning to add some color to the background, something I haven't done before. I'm researching on what to use and how. Luckily my friends are troopers and let me experiment with them. Again, Thanks!
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Pete H |
Hello Angie, I hate to burst your bubble, but trying to successfully shoot a Hi-Key setting is almost impossible with TWO 750 w/s strobes. Essentially the deficit lies in 1) not enough power and 2) not enough lights. The background will require it's own light source. The subject requires a main and a fill; or a main with a awesome reflector, but with 750 w/s, it's an uphill struggle. If my math is correct, that's a minimum of three lights. ;) It can be accomplished outdoors with some light modifiers, but in a studio setting?..Hmmmm? In your described example, yes; that is LOW KEY and presents far less challenge for a two light setup.
Pete
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- Gregory LaGrange Contact Gregory LaGrange Gregory LaGrange's Gallery |
All depends on how you use what you have. You'll need some way of rim lighting to really bring out an outline in black on black. And high key depends on what color/tones your using and how you use your light. You can do high key with just sunlight(one light) or large soft box/umbrella(one light) with light toned background or surroundings. All depends.
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